The industrial bones of this former boot factory show through in the high stud and floor-to-ceiling windows of the vibrant, hip room, now enhanced by banquette seating, large blackboards and an open kitchen. Wine offerings are in the hands of sommelier Matt Bocock, a thoughtful, thoroughly professional operator with excellent wine knowledge and an easy, engaging manner. With 40-plus cellared wines and more than 30 available by the glass, there’s good stylistic breadth and the option of several magnums always on offer is a tempting prospect for large groups. A short and sharp menu leans to Asian flavours with the likes of tom yum squid, Thai BBQ chicken, Goan raw fish curry and a beautifully executed lemon balm syrup cake with sour cream.

IN BRIEF Snappy menu and impressive wine choice