In an issue that celebrates chefs and the hospitality industry, it seems appropriate to be thinking about the workhorses of the kitchen. To my mind alliums have to be near the top of the list. The genus includes not only onions, but leeks, shallots, spring onions and chives. They are one of the oldest cultivated crops, esteemed as both food and medicine. In Aotearoa, onions are our biggest export vegetable with 90% of the crop being sent offshore.

Yet we take them for granted. They are seldom seen as sexy, definitely not shouty or showy, yet often they provide a shy and subtle bridge for other ingredients. I think of them as flavour builders with a huge capacity for adaptability. Different treatments can change their texture, colour and flavour – from sweetly caramelised to quick pickles or sharp raw salsa.

I cannot be alone in sometimes not having a plan for dinner, but alliums are one of the first ingredients I reach for – often I have sliced or diced it and started it frying over a low heat while I‘ll take stock of the fridge, leftovers and pantry to rustle up a meal.