This book promotes the idea of relish in the wider sense of the word, not just as a preserve. That is, to relish is to greatly enjoy and embrace; in this case, a table condiment that sits alongside the main dish to greatly enhance the overall taste experience.

Behind the making of preserves there is always the notion of ‘setting down’, as my grandmother Ruby used to say; of squirrelling away nutritious produce in months of plenty for the leaner times. There’s something intensely satisfying in opening the pantry door to see jars of preserves you’ve made yourself. Not only knowing that good food hasn’t gone to waste, but that you have created something delicious to add interest and flavour to any dish for very little cost. The preserving of produce, especially if you’ve grown it yourself, brings the joy of nurturing edible plants full circle. In addition, people love a gift of homemade preserves. Not only do they taste so much better than bought ones but they also represent a gift of time and energy, a taonga, to someone you value. To create something that can elevate a less-than-exciting dish to an exalted one is a persuasive if not downright compelling reason to use condiments. Well, that last might overstate the case a little – but only a little.

What I hope readers will take from this book is that, even on a very limited budget, it’s possible to eat gourmet by adding that little bit extra, transporting the ordinary into the extraordinary.