Ingredients

3kg mussels
80g butter
50g chopped carrot
90g chopped onion
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf
scant 1 cup/200ml dry white wine
1 shallot, chopped
fries for serving (optional)
pepper

Mussels can be foraged, but those that are sold are cultivated. There are two principal methods used regionally. The first is moules de bouchot, where they are grown on posts planted in the sand, alternatively covered and uncovered by the tide. In the Mediterranean, mussels of a different variety grow on hanging ropes and are constantly submerged, usually yielding larger specimens. The first kind tends to be more appropriate for the classic, basic moules marinières, which are ideally served with fries. Try to buy mussels when they are in season (this will change depending on where they come from).

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Instructions

1.Discard any mussels that are cracked or that remain open when tapped.
2.Remove the beards, scrape and wash the mussels in several changes of water, then drain.
3.Put the mussels in a large pot with 30g of the butter, the carrot, 2 tablespoons of the onion, half the parsley, the thyme and the bay leaf.
4.Season with pepper. Cover and cook over low heat for about 6 minutes, shaking the pan to mix the mussels when they begin to open.
5.Discard any that remain closed and discard the empty half-shells.
6.Transfer the mussels to a warm serving dish and set aside.
7.Strain the cooking liquid and pour it back into the pan, along with the wine, remaining butter, parsley, shallot and remaining onion.
8.Cook over high heat for 3 minutes.
9.Pour the sauce over the mussels and serve hot.

This is an extract from
Classic French Recipes
by Ginette Mathiot,
published by Phaidon,
$80. Photography
Marie-Pierre Morel.
phaidon.com