IN BRIEF

One for devotees of French-inspired food and lovers of classic cooking.

WHY CHOOSE THIS RESTAURANT?

Nestled in the heart of the eclectic Kingsland dining precinct, the restaurant is about as far as you can get from the high-style altars to dining excess you find elsewhere. The food is beautiful and the wine list covers the essential bases.

ABOUT THE FOOD

Everything is well honed, with tiny garnishes given the same careful treatment as the main ingredient, although sometimes the most interesting bites of deliciousness disappear too quickly. An inspired combo of duck breast with foie gras, cured plums and chocolate balanced the richness of tender duck with the intenseness of the jus, while the wild honey pistachio parfait up-scaled the ubiquitous golden kiwifruit. The ever-present lemon meringue pie, while quirky and delicious, no longer reflects the direction of the menu and could arguably be retired.

ABOUT THE CHEF

Phil Clark is devoted to the intricacies of his art and formal dining is his thing. His passion for the traditional form, the careful combination of colour and shape, the relationship between each element on the plate and the application of the appropriate cooking technique to each ingredient is paramount. This is the reason he has attracted such a loyal customer base.

ABOUT THE TEAM

Clark has surrounded himself with a small, tight-knit team including sous chef Jesse Phillips who he has worked with for many years and who had stints at Sails and as head chef at No 5, and senior chef de partie Ryan Sylver Tan who earned his stripes at eateries such as Prego and Headquarters.

OF NOTE

This is food to ponder, study and discuss. It’s cerebral, tasty and beautifully classic in its form.