Don’t let this great book get lost among the pile of similarly themed cookbooks clamouring for your attention. It’s not just easy weekday dinners; it’s not just simple vegetarian meals; it’s not just a call to arms to change our behaviour before we wreck the planet. It’s all of these and more. But can thinking more carefully about what we cook make any difference? Anna Jones puts it this way: none of us is perfect and the science is complicated. At times it feels hard to make the right choices. But every small change adds up. Interleaved with the recipe sections are lengthy ‘Planet’ chapters giving information on matters such as how to think about proteins, tips on food wastage, considering food miles and living with less plastic.

One of my favourite parts is a brilliant chapter giving 10 loose recipes for the most popular vegetables we buy. So, let’s talk about the food: stews, soups and curries fill the ‘One Pot’ chapter; fritters and crispy-edged veges come from ‘One Pan’; and all-in-one dinners and desserts are in the ‘One Tray’ section. A halloumi, lemon and caramelised onion tart came out with glossy, sweet onions on a crumbly crust, and my saag aloo shepherd’s pie had a crunchy cauliflower, potato and spinach topping over a gently spiced bean base. The cooler weather is calling me towards a sweet potato, ginger and coconut stew, though right now I’m off to make the umpteenth pot of lemon, tomato and cardamom dhal for supper. TRACY WHITMEY