ADDRESS:   472 Richmond Rd, Grey Lynn
CHECK WEBSITE FOR OPENING HOURS
MAINS:   $25 – $55
WEBSITE:    lilian.co.nz
CONTACT:   0210 528 136
SCORE:   16.5 / 20

Every neighbourhood deserves its own Lilian and Grey Lynn is so lucky to have theirs. Mind you, fitted out as it is with aged, plastered walls, a mix of banquette and high bar seats, plus sought-after street-front tables, you could be anywhere in Europe. Go for a drink and a snack or go for the full-frontal meal, but just go. Either way, don’t bypass the wood-fired bread: think hot, puffed pita sitting in a pool of excellent olive oil. A big thank you is due to chef Otis Gardner Schapiro for getting us off to a roaring start that only continues. Schapiro is co-owner with Hugo Baird and Willy Gresson; the trio know the ‘hood well and serve it well. Harmony reigns here with a decent drinks list that is designed to suit and wait staff who are tops. One good thing to come out of Covid: Lilian now takes bookings.

IN BRIEF: A Grey Lynn gem for all comers