NANCY SINGLETON HACHISU, PHAIDON, H/B, $70
I wanted to love this book from the moment I saw it. Elegantly clad in bamboo covers the book is a covetable treat for Japanese-food afficianados. Presented in 15 comprehensive chapters arranged by technique (steamed, grilled, vinegared, stir-fried), more than 400 recipes cover the familiar such as tempura, yakitori, teppan-yaki and ramen plus a wealth of traditional, regional and contemporary dishes such as Okinawan-style sesame donuts, eggplant in sesame miso and citrus and ume-dressed daikon and sardines. After living in Japan for more than 30 years, respected American food writer Nancy Singleton Hachisu has drawn on the wisdom of gifted home cooks so the food represents an eat-at-home
aesethetic rather than restaurant fare. Don’t be put off by the rather academic opening chapters; they give fascinating background to the origins of Japanese foods, cooking and eating but if you choose to skip straight to the recipes you won’t be missing out. While some unfamiliar ingredients are featured, she recommends substituting with what you have. “Make the decision with confidence and a clear heart,” she says – an ethos that’s welcome no matter what the cuisine.
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