When much is being said about the endurance tests, theatrical spectacles and monuments to ego that can be found lurking behind the concept of a tasting menu, can I just say what a pleasure it was to take a seat at the bar at Fico in Hobart for a beautifully considered menu without a whiff of smoke or the flash of a mirror in sight. To start, a gazpacho. Risky yes, especially on a chilly Tassie evening but this earthy, fresh representation of the often-unappreciated carrot was the perfect opener to the comfortably paced, super-delicious and special meal that followed. There were raw scallops in creamy macadamia, horseradish and celeriac and a sensational hand-cut sea urchin tagliolini. A Muscovy duck pappardella ripiena came with an exquisite parmigiano reggiano mousse and a velvet spinach sauce that showcased the first of the season’s truffles, and a dessert of mandarin, milk gelato and warm sabayon will be held close in my heart for a very long time.

It’s easy to taste why this two-hatted restaurant has also been awarded Best Restaurant Tasmania by Gourmet Traveller and Best Wine List Tasmania by Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards. Owner-operators Federica Andrisani and Oskar Rossi and their team are offering Tasmanian hospitality at its best. Don’t miss out on Fico if you are in Hobart. You will love Oskar’s playlist. ficofico.net