SCORE: 17/20

Thu Ya Naing is the brains in the kitchen here and he’s certainly turning out some smoke on the water. His menu strikes that Asian flavour balance of spicy, tart and sweet. The Myanmar national’s passion for multicultural cuisine is evident with bold, uncompromising fusion food. Little street food nibbles, dumplings, hot woks and curries: there’s a multitude of dishes that are true to their origins while allowing an injection of innovative local flavour. From the hot wok section comes New Zealand king salmon with cauliflower and coconut purée, sambal, roast tomato, cucumber and fresh herbs. There are also two banquet menus for parties of four or more. The boldness in the kitchen is underscored by the bright and lively surrounds and enhanced by a line-up of knowledgeable and competent front-of-house staff. The drinks list is a lively complement to the tastes.