Your quest for full-flavoured, wine-friendly food that’s matched with a distinctive and tailored drinks list is more than met at this address. This is the domain of executive chef Neil Sapitula, whose name has previously made it onto these pages as one to watch. Allow us to repeat ourselves: Neil is going to very good places indeed. He weaves a magic with food that is unpretentious, unpredictable and which seems to find its heart in the essence of the main ingredient. Peruse the à la carte menu with growing enthusiasm as you discover ‘fish and chips’ reimagined as raw kingfish, potato pave and smoked mussel mayo – and that’s just for (literal) starters. The menu is tight, but there’s ample consideration for vegetarians. Neil also shines with a set menu that covers all his brilliant bases. Outstanding service, plus that truly inspirational wine list, underscores what this sort of dining is all about.