Welcome to the world of gills-to-fin cookery, courtesy of staunch advocate and head chef Teresa Pert. This has been her headquarters since 2019 and she says it feels like home. That’s the case for all manner of diners, too. This ‘shack’ fits various bills in fine fashion. Naturally the menu is fish-centred, but there are options to suit all tastes. Teresa is mightily conscientious in her use of nature’s bounty. You can see it in dishes such as the smoked moki rillettes starter with pickled radish and sourdough crostini. Not a jot of wastage there (the main bits of the moki are steamed and served with sautéed mushrooms, smoked walnut butter and pickled celeriac). Teresa’s prowess is amply balanced by a particularly fine selection of wines. Despite its size, it is in no way intimidating – not least because the staff are wonderfully forthcoming with tastes and advice.