Ever since Michael Meredith started out under the tutelage of that godfather of chefs, Tony Astle, at Antoine’s, he has excelled at his given talent. Here Michael has emerged as a superb craftsman in charge of, and comfortable in, his own surrounds. His menu uses multiple techniques on a single plate and showcases his consummate ability to combine disparate flavours. It’s the epitome of Kiwi fusion: a nod to Pasifika for Samoan-raised Meredith, more than a modicum of Mexico, hints of Italian and classic French, a touch of Asian. We know when we read ‘snapper, chickpea, green-lipped mussel’ that the delivery will far exceed that minimalist description. The service is faultless and the drinks list the size of an old telephone book. Will this man ever stop? He’s shortly to open another address – but Mr Morris fans can rest assured he’ll still be dancing to his Britomart tune.