Chef Pierre-Alain Fenoux and partner/co-owner Diana Goh took over this heritage restaurant of many guises nearly a decade ago. During their tenure, they have turned it into their own singular statement. Pierre-Alain’s love of cooking is plainly evident in his menus, which centre on a frequently changing dégustation with a strong emphasis on seasonality. An autumnal main of wild wapiti with celeriac, blueberry, chocolate, juniper berry and homemade sourdough bread is just the ticket. It clearly identifies this chef as someone who knows what he’s doing. The butternut squash dessert takes pumpkin pie to a whole new level. Matched beverages are thoughtfully chosen from a small but interesting list to enhance each dish. An added touch: dishes are served by the chefs, who clearly have a passion for what they are doing and provide an insight on the provenance and reasons for selecting certain ingredients.