There’s a lot to like about the old Lido. The address itself, for a start. Then we find executive chef Shepherd Elliott in co-ownership with another hospo heavyweight, Sean Golding. There’s a touch of glam in both decor and menu. Shepherd’s sophisticated spin on classics adds panache; the night lighting in the historical Mibar building adds a sexy glow. A steak tartare starter is something to be adored; the plats principaux (aged eye and scotch fillets, half a roast chicken or eggplant schnitzel among them) traverse and feed your soul; Shepherd’s chicken liver pâté passes muster beyond compare. Some serious cocktails are perfectly engineered to our liking. We don’t have room to discuss desserts, but it’s advised that you do just that. By his own description, Shepherd says his food here is, “Luxury European bistro crossed with New York steakhouse”. We gladly report that’s exactly what he achieves.