Anybody who can elevate the humble choko to a place of excellence is a big winner in our books. And here, in this cleverly refurbished heritage building, we find chef/co- owner Sam Clark (pictured above with co-owner Florencia Menehem) skilfully doing just that in the form of a raw fish dish with a support crew of mandarin kosho and nori. The playful approach gives a now-commonplace dish a deliciously new lease on life and creates a crucial point of difference. And so we continue with a dish of lamb rump with smoked shank that is rich and powerful, glossy and gorgeous. The planets align for the dark chocolate sorbet dessert, too. Central Fire Station Bistro allows Sam to show off his classic cooking skills, his measured, playful application and his deep understanding of his customer base. This is a super restaurant where flavour and quality are paramount.