Dariush Lolaiy and Rebecca Smidt are the second-generation owners and innovators of this business that defies almost every convention. Since its establishment some 36 years ago, it has continued to perform in most unlikely circumstances. The address has never been in a restaurant-prominent area. The principal offering is, and has always been, game. The term ‘celebrity chef’ has never been sought. Perhaps that’s the secret to their success: they just continue to perfect what they’ve always been good at – ever since founder (Dariush’s dad Tony Lolaiy) set out as one of our original hunter-gatherers. Wild, organic, seasonal, free-range: it’s all sourced from New Zealand hunters and producers. They give it the best possible kitchen treatment and serve it up with a drinks list that, like the place itself, has never been mainstream. It’s the height of non-pretension. We love and admire all there is to it.