Co-owner and chef Tom Hutchison gives the big thumbs-down to ego in the kitchen. He likes to celebrate ingredients instead. He likes authenticity and honesty. Clearly, that approach has endured at the restaurant he and wife, Kate, opened in 2002 and which continues to pull the punters in more than two decades later. A strongly seasonal menu illustrates the best of the capital’s seafood and local produce. A concise selection concentrates on simple dishes that allow the ingredients to sing. Twice-cooked lamb shoulder rack with chermoula roast carrots and red onion is a big winter hit. “We prepare the food we love; we serve the wines we love,” says Kate. Both believe genuine openheartedness has to be at the core of any good operation. That’s what gets them returning to the restaurant day after day, and their fan base, too.