Cambridge is where it all began for Noel Cimadom and his wife Kim Smythe, who now own a clutch of restaurants in the Bay of Plenty. We can gladly report that the original Alpino has only upped its game. How do they do it? By treating every diner as if they belong the minute they walk in the door. The equine set, the mercantile members, the richly retired, the locals, the visitors: they all come here. So do homesick ex-pats. They may just want pizza and beer, or they might seek a full, long wander from antipasti through secondi to dolce. Every taste and need will be attended to by an immensely talented kitchen and front-of-house team. Somehow, they manage to inject just the right degree of fun into a very reverent experience. Their wines and cocktails measure up equally.