The name Ben Bayly inspires instant cuisine confidence and a textbook study in his multifarious skills rests here in Commercial Bay. Ahi has been around long enough to cement its place in this city-centre complex (it has even spawned an adjacent sibling), but it still has country connections. There’s an organic garden – all the better to intensify flavours in the produce on the plate. The panorama of delights stretches beyond the harbour views: the menu is a rollcall of suppliers and growers; the bar is splendidly stocked; the staff impeccable in attention. We love the less-regular menu mentions (wallaby, red deer – sustainably and ethically sourced) and we love that Bayly maintains his on-site presence despite all the hats he wears. Ahi means fire, and here we see it ignite the enthusiasm as well as firing our bellies in the best sense.