SCORE: 18/20

This could be the best restaurant you’ve never heard of. Discreetly snug in an intimate, understated Parnell dining room, a revolution is taking place. Samoan food, already loved by Pasifika New Zealanders, is being transformed by chef Henry Onesemo (pictured above) into a refined, sophisticated palette of flavours and textures like no other. Henry was born in Samoa where he trained as a chef and later had stints in Hawaii, Florida and Thailand before landing a spot at Meredith’s in Auckland. In 2023, with his wife Debby they began Tala where they offer three forms of set menus to diners. Dining here is like having an intimate conversation with someone in their own home. Henry incorporates what he finds in the markets each day into each course which comes served with a gentle discourse as he shares his vast knowledge of ingredients, techniques and provenance. Every dish is spectacularly interesting – from the raw ramen evoking childhood memories of eating crisp noodles from plastic packets to the moreish croquettes of palusami, a phenomenal lamb sapusui, and smoky chicken and taro given a complete makeover. In between courses, Henry educates and encourages diners to look deeper and consider more carefully. By the time the meal is over, the conversion is complete.