I didn’t know what I was getting myself into when joining a group of powerful Waikato women called the Soil Sisters in sprawling Hamilton East. So, with my fear of being buried alive in the back of my mind, I solicited the assistance of Cuisine editor Kelli Brett to be my bodyguard for the day. They would have to get through her first and then I maybe could have the chance to make a run for it if things went downhill…

Generally on A New Zealand Food Story we visit the great Kiwis who grow, hunt, fish and farm. People who make world-class ingredients that I can buy, jazz up, marvel at their deliciousness and tell a story to our guests. This journey is a process I love and is natural to me. But the Soil Sisters are not a supplier of mine and they have nothing I can purchase, so why are we here? This visit is going to be a little bit different.

The Soil Sisters started when Tokoroa-born founder Fran Bailey returned to the Waikato after 10 years working in regenerative farming in the UK. Fran wanted to reconnect with like-minded people in food and farming, people who grow healthy food in a way that benefits the soil. As Fran searched out and connected with her new network of foodies, they all turned out to be women… the Soil Sisters were born.

As well as the regular catch-ups, the Soil Sisters host workshops and today this is what Kelli and I are here for, ‘Creating an Urban Food Forest’ with Annie Perkins. And it’s all about how to make the best of your back yard.

It is music to my ears as I hear the women discussing and teaching each other about the soil. They give more to the soil than they take: mulching, using homemade organic fertilisers, taking composting workshops, learning about soil mycelium and microbiome, all working alongside nature. It’s a full movement away from spraying and monocropping. All this is happening in Annie’s own back yard. Imagine if everyone did this? Everything comes from the soil so we need to look after it to look after ourselves.

So it makes me think. The food I decide to put into my body has a direct connection to my health and wellbeing. I really want to know exactly what is in my food, how it is made, who made it and where did it come from to understand why I am eating it. If you do not have your health, you have nothing. Surely this is a priority for all of us. The mystifying bunch of numbers, stabilisers, colouring and gums on the back of my latest supermarket purchase is frightening and sometimes leaves me wondering if ultra-high processed foods are the new cigarettes?

As we tour Annie’s property, I see not one blade of grass. I think straight away that this idea is brilliant. Lawns feel redundant in modern-day Kiwi suburbia, totally underutilised since my days as a kid, as we now have devices to entertain children and lawns are a bloody pain in the ass to keep looking great. And I’m tired of paying top dollar for average vegetables at the supermarket with no flavour. Annie’s garden is a beautiful juxtaposition, with a huge variety of native plants and healthy soil growing food to nourish her family, without relying on an external food chain to be provided for them.

My nervousness in participating feels silly now; there is a special kind of magic with these Soil Sisters, so much joy and I am inspired by their close friendship, culture and a deep connection with each other. I also realise we share a common passion: digging out the real food heroes in our community, sharing their stories and unlocking new perspectives and knowledge. I feel richer from my experience – the Soil Sisters have added another important layer to A New Zealand Food Story.

The Soil Sisters’ meet ups always end with great food – everyone brings a speciality dish and there were some amazing recipes. Sausage rolls are an iconic Kiwi favourite, but these days are often just junk food in the service stations. What a treat Adele’s sausage rolls were: made by hand, filled with wild-shot red deer and with pastry made from butter and Milmore Downs freshly ground New Zealand flour. Basic but delicious and when made with love, even sausage rolls can be good for you.