“The best of the sparkling wines are showing more Champagne-like qualities each year,” says panel chair John Belsham. “They are becoming more complex and layered in fl avour without losing fi nesse, and a couple of wines from this tasting would not have been out of place in the Champagne line-up.” Those sentiments were echoed by panellist Steve Voysey, a sparkling-wine guru in his own right – “there was a freshness, complexity and beautiful elegance in the winning wines”. Our top wine (100 per cent chardonnay) mirrored those Champagne

qualities. Says Steve: “Despite trailing pinot meunier and pinot noir in vineyard plantings, chardonnay is king in Champagne. Reserved for the best sites and best wines, it is loved for its longevity, freshness, structure
and ability to carry complexity in sparkling wines. It provides the framework on which sparkling wines are built and, in years where a vintage is declared, is released as vintage blanc de blancs (white of whites) wine.”
Of the 19 wines awarded four stars or more in this international tasting, 15 were from New Zealand, with all judges agreeing that Kiwi sparkling wine just keeps getting better. And the bonus? Some unbelievably low price tags. The top-scoring wine sells at just a whisker above $20, with its fi ve-star rosé sibling a steal at $16.

The Tasting panel The Champagne panel of John Belsham, Ralph Kyte-Powell,Steve Voysey and associate judge(non-scoring), Jane Boyle, also reviewed the sparkling wines.

TOP 5



1. Lindauer Special Reserve Blanc de Blancs NV $21 (NZ)
Very Champagne-like, this chardonnay-based wine is a triumph from Lindauer. It’s frothy, rich and complete, with a perfect balance of tangy grapefruit, apple and lemony varietal cues harmoniously woven through biscuity, vanilla-creamy characters. Its richness and complexity, along with its excellent structure, make it a wine for connoisseurs, but it’s priced so the rest of us can also afford it! [C]

The people’s choice
This year celebrating 30 years, the ever-popular Lindauer was a trendsetter from the outset, offering Kiwis (and later, export markets) top-notch, bottle-fermented fizz at very reasonable prices. Along the way the range has expanded to include some innovative wine types and the classical styles have also evolved. Our top sparkling wine, Lindauer Special Reserve Blanc de Blancs, fits the latter category. Launched in 2004, it’s made entirely from chardonnay grown in Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay. Ageing on yeast lees for two years before release gives it complexity and finesse way beyond its dream price tag.

2. Daniel Le Brun Platinum Vintage 2001 $39 (NZ)
This powerful, mature wine is what the French might call recently disgorged, after eight years developing on its yeast lees in the bottle. The result is great complexity with finesse, and savoury characters rather than simple fruit. Bready, yeasty and nutty elements, lemon rind savouriness, earthy pinot noir richness, a whisper of sulphide complexity – it’s all there in a full-on, mouthfilling, complete wine. [C]

3. Deutz Marlborough Prestige Cuvee 2007 $44 (NZ)
The term Prestige Cuvee suggests a wine of great sophistication and this outstanding drop deserves the title.
Its appley, custardy fruit has a pristine quality, with light biscuity and high-toned aromas adding complexity and interest. Good texture is an important part of good fizz and this has it: foamy, silky and finely balanced, finishing
tangy and complete. [F]

4. Lindauer Rosé NV $16 (NZ)
Last year’s sparkling winner continues in fine form. Delicate pink in colour, its enchanting nose combines spring florals, strawberry fruit, savoury meaty notes and toasty complexity. In the mouth it’s finely textured and intense in flavour, with lovely harmony between soft fruit and crisp acidity. John Belsham summed it up succinctly:
“polished and precise”. [C]

5. Quartz Reef Methode Traditionnelle NV $27-$30 (NZ)
Austrian-born Rudi Bauer makes very refined sparkling wine from his pinot noir and chardonnay vineyards in Central Otago. His non-vintage version displays ultra-fine apple and citrus aromas of delicate purity, leading to an elegantly linear palate of great length and taut structure. An outstanding aperitif style.