Times are far from easy for makers of New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Oversupply has been a problem for several years now, one that producers have been urged to remedy. After tasting close to 240 sauvignon blancs, most from 2011, the Cuisine panel was heartened by the overall quality of the vintage. “It was clearly a very good year,” says panel chair John Belsham. “One of the features of the line-up was the tighter structure of these wines than those of some earlier vintages.” The panel was also happy to note fewer of the extroverted styles that once defined Kiwi sauvignon, but which have become less popular among international critics and sommeliers. And yet, there was a feeling that more effort is needed in that area. The tasting results showed relatively few peaks.

Just eight wines received five stars, while only three were awarded four and a half stars. “There’s too much safe winemaking, following a recipe,” Belsham says. “The result is a lot of correct, but boring, wine. For New Zealand sauvignon blanc to advance, more producers need to break the mould and explore different styles.”

The Tasting panel On board to help Cuisine’s regular panel chair and proprietor of Foxes Island Wines, John Belsham, navigate the incoming sauvignon blanc tide were a pair of Michaels: winemaker at renowned Kumeu River Wines, Michael Brajkovich MW, and Michael Ivicevich, chief winemaker at Delegat’s Wine Estate. Associate judges (non-scoring) were Jane Boyle and Cuisine’s New Zealand wine writer, John Saker.

TOP 10


1. Te Pa Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Marlborough) $20-$22
A classic “Hey, I’m over here” vibrancy pulls you in to our top sauvignon blanc. But that’s just the beginning; layers of flint and savoury minerality, excellent fruit concentration, and an unfolding, lingering juiciness supply stature and complexity. The result is an engaging, interesting wine you’d happily serve with a casual meal of whitebait fritters (egg white only, Michael Brajkovich emphasised) with fresh asparagus on the side. [E]
of asparagus.

From familial to familiar
For a wine that has just burst on to the scene, the Te Pa Sauvignon Blanc story reaches back a long way – like about 800 years. Thanks to the recent dating of artefacts buried with their ancestors, that’s how far back the MacDonald family can trace its links to the Wairau Bar, the area of land around the mouth of the Wairau River.
“The 800 years are the reason we have the waru (figure eight) on the label,” explains Haysley MacDonald. “It also looks like a fish hook. Over all that time the family has been living off the land here. Now wherever we
are, we talk about ‘the pa’ as being this place. Te Pa is home.” The MacDonalds have put the land to a variety of uses, more recently dairy farming and potato growing. Haysley decided to plant grapes in 2004. After initially selling the fruit, the new label, made by the team at Marisco, was launched this year.“ Putting it into the bottle gives the family some control,” says MacDonald. “We’d like to slowly build our brand and one day be self-sufficient.”

2. Sileni Estates Selection The Straits 2011 (Marlborough) $25
What initially seems a more delicate style does “creep up on you”, thought Jane Boyle, to offer surprising power and length. Ripe citrus and attractive herbaceous flavours are set against a smooth, rice-paper-like texture. Have it with a summer lunch of mussels.

3. Tuatara Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011 $12-$19.95
Unlike its reptile namesake, this seamless wine does evolve. It kept getting better every time the panel returned to it, revealing a crisp, weighty vibrancy. Flavour tones from both the green and yellow ends of the spectrum contribute. Classically sauvignon. [A]

4. Whitehaven Greg Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011 $24.95-$27.95
Whitehaven’s top-tier wines are named in memory of Greg White, the winery co-founder who died in 2007. Special batches of fruit from both the Wairau and Waihopai Valleys have been used to make this racy, citrusy wine that brims with vigour and personality.

5. The Ned Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Marlborough) $17-$20.95
Our last year’s top sauvignon was again among the stars. Plenty of zesty, nettle-like, tomato leaf notes come through, carried by crunchy acidity. The green element does not run the show, thanks to balancing ripe, sweet capsicum notes. Serve alongside tuatua fritters with a squeeze of lemon.



6. Mt Olympus Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Marlborough) $10-$15.95
One of those expressions that comes across so fresh and pristine you feel cleansed just tasting it. Ripe tropical-fruit flavours ride a strong tide of acidity, finishing long and crisp. Fresh sardines, grilled in olive oil with garlic and parsley, would pair well. [A]

7. Saint Clair Marlborough Premium Sauvignon Blanc 2011 $19.50-$21.50
Sauvignon-savvy Saint Clair delivers a king hit with this concentrated, punchy, ripe rendition. A green herbal twist is woven around a core of lemon curd and passionfruit notes, which persist to a lengthy finish. The many admirers of the Saint Clair style will love this wine.

8. Lawson’s Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Marlborough) $18-$20
“This is an example of oak in sauvignon blanc being impeccably handled,” noted Michael Ivicevich. The toastiness brought on by barrel fermentation, and the complex, oily texture give this wine a white-Bordeaux-like personality.

9. Saint Clair Pioneer Block 3 43 Degrees Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Marlborough) $23.50-$25.50
The aromatic cannonade does not hold back, with fresh green herbs and florals leading the assault. After that there is more restraint, with the clean bright fruit tripping lightly across the palate, carried by lively acidity. Partner it with poached flounder.

10. Tiki Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Marlborough) $19.95
This juicy, elegant wine is fresh and crisp, offering quince-like scents and an attractive chalky, slaty texture.
An element of green apple sweetness would be well suited to a salty lunch dish such as leek and feta tart. Or you could happily sip this refreshing wine as an aperitif.