Italian red wines have never been better, with their distinctive

personalities appealing more and more to wine lovers across the world. Miles away in style from the more familiar French-origin red grapes populating Australasian vineyards, Italian wines are “different”.
Texture is as important as flavour, with subtle and savoury more prized than ripe and fruity, as are acidity and tannins. It all accords with the role wine plays in Italian society. These are wines made with food in mind, not to be sipped as drinks in a bar. Their place is at the table, which is where they come into their own, and we uncovered some gems.
However, although Italian wine quality is generally on the up, we were disappointed to find only 13 of 37 entries worthy of star ratings.

The Tasting panel The Bordeaux blends panel of John Belsham, Ralph Kyte-Powell and Steve Smith MW also reviewed the Italian entries.

Antinori Tenuta Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 $45-$48 (Tuscany) -5
Tenuta Marchese sums up the balance of elegant refinement and rustic charm that marks the best Chianti. It’s almost lush for a Tuscan red wine, ideally suited to gently pot-roasted kid or lamb. Aromas of raspberry, red cherry, undergrowth and spice lead into a plump, beautifully structured and layered palate with cedary tannic grip and lip-smacking acidity for structure. Delicious. [D]

Da Vinci Chianti Riserva 2006 $31-$33 (Tuscany) -3
From the impressively named Cantine Leonardo da Vinci, a high-quality cooperative winery near Florence, this mature Chianti has a ripe, spicy nose reminiscent of cherries, chocolate and deli meats. The palate is relatively full and rich, but there’s a tight, savoury backbone to keep it together. Try it with Florentine beef steak. [C]

Leonardo Chianti Riserva 2006 $28-$30 (Tuscany) -3
From the same producer as the wine above, the quality here is similarly
excellent. It smells appetisingly of flowering herbs, red fruits and black chocolate, and the palate is rich, complete, full of flavour and lingering. A bit softer than its sibling, it’s finely textured and satisfying. [C]

Poggio ai Santi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2008 $18-$24 (Abruzzo) -3
This red from Central Italy’s eastern side is often a real bargain and Poggio ai Santi’s version shows what we mean. Aromas of juicy berries, spice and “Italian deli” introduce a round, flavoursome wine of some power. It tastes smoky and full, with attractive freshness and a long, half-bitter finish. Try it alongside risotto, wild mushrooms and crisped prosciutto. [A]

Caldora Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2009 $17-$22 (Abruzzo) -3
More great value from the eastern foothills of the Apennines. Just right with Italian sausages, Caldora is jammy and youthful, offering berry and prune flavours, and toasty elements on the nose. There’s good concentration
in the mouth, fine, seamless texture, excellent length of finish and relatively easy tannins. [B]

Codici Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2009 $17-$20 (Abruzzo) -2
From the coastal area of Pescara in east-central Italy, this slightly jammy Montepulciano is best drunk young. Good with pasta ribbons and ragu sauce, it has dark berry fruit and spicy notes of appetising distinction. Fleshy, flavoursome and well balanced. [B]

Rocca delle MacÌE Ser Gioveto 2005 $73-$76 (Tuscany) -3
This intense “super-Tuscan” from a well-regarded Chianti producer is blended from sangiovese with 10 per cent each of cabernet and merlot, then aged in French oak. With appealing cedary notes, restrained raspberryish fruit, spice and a hint of treacle, it is dry, savoury and structured, without losing elegant fruit character. [E]



History in a bottle
In Australasia the oldest wine-producing families still in the business arrived down under around the 1830s or 40s. In Italy it’s different. The country breathes history. Antinori Tenuta Marchese Chianti Classico Riserva 2006, our top-scoring Italian red, is made by the 26th generation of a family that traces its winemaking history back to 1385. In that year Giovanni di Piero Antinori joined the Florentine Winemakers’ Guild and the family has been at the forefront of Tuscan wine, especially Chianti, ever since. By now they know a thing or two about it.

To source wines listed, contact the distributor (indexed by letter). [A] Artigiano Imports, ph: 021-405 616 [B] Epicurean Wine Brokers, ph: 0800-765 000 [C] EuroVintage, ph: 0800-338 766 [D] Negociants NZ, ph: 09-531 5222 [E] Vintners NZ, ph: 09-621 0210

TASTING NOTES Tasting method All wines are tasted blind. If, after discussion, the tasters do not agree on a star rating, the wine will receive the rating given by the majority but dissenting comments will be included in the wine notes. The scores of winemaker judges cannot exceed those of other judges. Availability All wines entered in Cuisine tastings must be readily available at the time of publication. However, high demand and a six-week lead time between tastings and publication can affect availability. If you cannot find the wines, contact the winery or distributor direct. Prices Suppliers are asked to provide a retail price range for all wines entered in tastings. Prices do vary between vineyard and low-to-high volume outlets and cannot, therefore, be guaranteed. All prices are quoted in $NZ. Recommended by Cuisine stickers Look for these top wines as your guarantee of quality. Gold sticker - Wines awarded five stars can wear the gold five-star Recommended by Cuisine sticker. Burgundy sticker - Wines awarded 4 1/2 and four stars can display the original Recommended by Cuisine sticker.