Dessert wines - Wine tasting 2011

And no, they’re not in fashion at the moment. But is there a more delightfully decadent taste sensation than sipping a well-made dessert wine? As our panel discovered,
winemakers in New Zealand are becoming increasingly adept at producing sweet wines. No fewer than seven of the 40 entries were awarded five stars. Also of interest
is the range of different varieties that showed well. While riesling certainly starred, three other grapes are on show among the top wines.

TOP 5

1. Cloudy Bay Late Harvest Riesling 2006 (Marlborough) $29.90
This rich, complex, concentrated wine is a superb advertisement for riesling and its suitability as
a late harvest wine. Toasty aromatics and luscious enveloping honeyed flavours are presented against a robust, almost rough-hewn texture. The acidity tapers finely at the finish. A great partner for fresh walnuts and soft blue cheese.

Go slow at Cloudy Bay
At Cloudy Bay, there’s a good-things-take-time approach to the winery’s late harvest riesling, which is why the 2006 version is only just out. “We have a passion for this wine style,” says Tim Heath, who is part of the winemaking team, along with Nick Lane and Sarah Burton. “We all work on it and do so for the love of it. We know we’re not going to sell a lot, although I believe there are wine drinkers who understand that these wines are more than just something sweet to bring out with dessert.” Heath says, “The wine sits in old oak for 18 months, which is a Cloudy Bay thing, and then after we bottle it, we hold on to it a bit longer so that the acidity and sugar marry up.”
The quiet upbringing Heath gives this wine contrasts with his home life. He and wife Amy have just joined
the Marlborough Winemaker Gynaecological Co-Ferment Club with the recent arrival of twin boys.
“I’m not sleeping much,” he sighs.

1. Framingham Marlborough Noble Riesling 2011 $35
Like a dessert trolley in a glass, this focused, crisp wine is suggestive of tarte Tatin, lemon curd and even apricot tart. The texture is fleshy and generous; the purity, vitality and freshness all contribute to a hedonist’s paradise. “Such a fresh style would go well with ripe figs and prosciutto,” suggested Cameron Douglas.

Dressed to the nines
Framingham winemaker Andrew Hedley is a devotee of dessert wines. Since joining the winery in 2001, he has had a hand in producing the style every year until 2010. “That year it never stopped raining, which hampered us,” he says. “So we made up for it in 2011 by making nine different sweet styles.” That’s right… nine – six from riesling, two from pinot gris and one from gewurztraminer. The rieslings are inspired by different German styles, from off-dry through to the botrytised, noble style of this wine. “ Riesling is the heart and soul of everything we do at Framingham,” says Hedley. “And I personally love the challenges of working with high sugars and the range of flavours you have, getting the acid balance right and achieving purity.” Hedley’s perfect food match is cheese. “But being low in alcohol, this is also a good wine to serve between courses as a refresher.”

3. Brancott Estate Letter Series B Brancott Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Marlborough) $37
“Bravo… that is the best example of a dessert wine made from sauvignon blanc I’ve seen in this country,” said John Belsham. The concentrated apricot and honey notes, tangy vibrancy and oily purity come together with Sauternes-like ease. [B]

4. Bladen Marlborough Botrytised Riesling 2011 $30
Riesling freshness takes a starring role in Bladen’s first-ever attempt at a sweet wine, which used fruit from 20-year-old vines. Limes and golden peach flavours are presented dripping with intense honeycomb sweetness, carried by taut acidity. A complex, rich style that would go well with a fine pâté.

5. Seifried Winemakers Collection Nelson Sweet Agnes Riesling 2011 $22-$30
A wine with a proud history and named after Seifried matriarch Agnes, this charming expression is less about botrytis complexity and more about spicy, jasmine aromatics and driving acidity. “Zingy and fresh, it will have wide appeal,” said Cameron Douglas.

Saint Clair Godfrey’s Creek Reserve Noble Riesling 2009 (Marlborough) $25.50-$27.50
Citrus in various guises (lemon curd, grapefruit pith, limes) flows through this elegant, lively offering from old Marlborough hands Saint Clair. The fruit is pure and a toasty note adds complexity. The perfect companion
for summer pudding.

Selaks Heritage Reserve Gewürztraminer Riesling 2011 (Marlborough) $20
For a top-quality sweet wine, this is an unbelievable bargain. The gewürztraminer shows its hand with perfumed, gingery aromatics, while the riesling provides acidic lift. It’s drier than many in the line-up and Cameron Douglas liked its prospects as a partner for rice pudding. [A]

Forrest Botrytised Riesling 2011 (Marlborough) $40-$50
Another stunner from John Forrest’s Wairau Valley riesling site, this concentrated wine generously ladles out the honey and grapefruit marmalade flavours. It has length, balance and is utterly delicious.

Lawson’s Dry Hills Late Harvest Gewürztraminer 2007 (Marlborough) $19-$27
Relatively low on sweetness, this wine’s richness is derived from its strong, oily gewurztraminer characters, vibrant acidity and overall intensity. A product of an excellent vintage, it is settled
and harmonious.

Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Noble Viognier 2010 (Hawke’s Bay) $34-$36
Deep gold in colour, very pure, with fantastic length and a velvety texture, this wine elicited many murmurs of approval. A tasting treat, given the rarity of a noble viognier, its varietal definition, together with the use of
oak, gave the wine “a Condrieu look”, the panel thought.

TASTING NOTES Tasting method All wines are tasted blind. If, after discussion, the tasters do not agree on a star rating, the wine will receive the rating given by the majority but dissenting comments will be included in the wine notes. The scores of winemaker judges cannot exceed those of other judges. Availability All wines entered in Cuisine tastings must be readily available at the time of publication. However, high demand and a six-week lead time between tastings and publication can affect availability. If you cannot find the wines, contact the winery or distributor direct. Prices Suppliers are asked to provide a retail price range for all wines entered in tastings. Prices do vary between vineyard and low-to-high volume outlets and cannot, therefore, be guaranteed. All prices are quoted in $NZ. Recommended by Cuisine stickers Look for these top wines as your guarantee of quality. Gold sticker - Wines awarded five stars can wear the gold five-star Recommended by Cuisine sticker. Burgundy sticker - Wines awarded 4 1/2 and four stars can display the original Recommended by Cuisine sticker.