Wines of this calibre are “indescribable”, says panel chair John Belsham. “As noted in Emile Peynaud’s winemaker bible, Knowing and Making Wine, the better a wine becomes, the more difficult it is to describe.” The superb wines in this tasting had their own distinct personalities, in line with the fact that the lustrous world of Champagne is not standardised to a popular norm. Of course there’s a family resemblance, but individual producers each have their own discernible signature.

The Tasting panel Panel chair John Belsham, respected international judge, winemaker and owner of Foxes Island Wines in Marlborough, was joined by our Australian wine judge Ralph Kyte-Powell, and Steve Voysey, Indevin regional winemaker for Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne. Our associate judge (non-scoring) was Jane Boyle.

Top 5



1. Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie NV $124-$134
This wine takes Taittinger’s famous Champagnes in a different direction. It’s smoothly complex with an apple and citrus tang, enriched by toasty, yeasty notes, and there’s almost a hint of white Burgundy in its deep, savoury
flavours. Refined and complete, its silky mouthfeel is a delight, as is the beautifully tapering, delicately
lingering finish. [K]

Unique expression
Like most Champagnes the distinctively smooth Taittinger style is generally a blended wine, incorporating fruit from many different vineyard sources. Les Folies de la Marquetterie is different. A single-vineyard wine with its own unique personality, it’s made from chardonnay (55 per cent) and pinot noir (45 per cent), grown in Taittinger’s vineyard overlooking the picturesque Chateau de la Marquetterie. It’s one of a small number of such wines in Champagne, made to express a special vineyard rather than a house style. And it’s absolutely superb.

2. Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2002 $110-$120
Moët’s 2002 Grand Vintage treads a pathway through delicacy and power with wonderful aplomb. This complex Champagne opens with aromas of eggy brioche, apple, meringue and stone fruit that have a spring-like freshness and purity. The sherbetty palate has a lovely dissolving quality with great depth, along with an ultra-long, appetising finish. [F]

3. Laurent-Perrier Cuvee Rosé NV $179-$209This is a non-vintage wine, but it fits readily into the prestigious ranks of
the luxury Champagne cuvees. An enchanting strawberries and cream aroma has beguiling purity and delicacy, yet it has substance too. The elegant palate has superb balance and subtlety of flavour, and a chalky, firm backbone carries a super-long finish. [J]

4. Laurent-Perrier Brut Millésimé 2002 $119-$139
Another outstanding example of the great 2002 Champagne vintage. Perhaps finesse is an overused term when talking about Champagne, but it’s often the first word that comes to mind. This is a case in point: lemon rind, smoky spice and biscuity aromas, and a rich, smooth and complete palate with a beautifully sustained flavour
of great finesse. [J]

5. Krug GrandE Cuvee NV $269-$289
Krug’s very traditional style can be intimidating for those who like fresher, lighter, modern wines. Fans relish it
for its super-complexity and power. Suggestions of candied peel, toasted almond, honey, gingerbread and ripe melon mark the nose. It’s developed, but not as mature as past examples have been in our tastings. The dense, creaming palate is full-bodied and dry, but admirably fresh. [F]