Wakatipu Grill - Queenstown

Dining by night at the Wakatipu Grill may mean sacrificing the restaurant’s statement view across Lake Wakatipu, but the scenery indoors is almost as impressive.

Housed in the new Hilton Queenstown, the restaurant’s long dining room is immediately alluring, with the decor a pleasing convergence of earthy and glitzy. Two large circular slate fireplaces serve to divide spaces, a row of strikingly modern dark-glass chandeliers crown a central line of leather booths, the textural walls feature overlapping rectangles of chocolate brown wallpaper, and a smart open kitchen runs the length of the room.

The lakeside hotel sits within the Kawarau Village development, just five minutes’ drive from Queenstown airport. The location sees diners on the terrace bathed in afternoon sun long after Queenstown is plunged into shade. And with the running of scheduled water taxis between the two locations, it’s bound to become one of the region’s more desirable lunch spots.

Renowned New Zealand chef Peter Thornley (ex-Auckland’s Bracu and more recently Kermadec) is signature chef and has developed a locally focused, succinct menu – generally five each of entree, main and dessert – that changes almost daily. In fact, our waitress gave this as a reason as to why she was unable to answer most questions about the menu. She was, however, happy to ask the kitchen and report back.

Entrees included delicate brik pastry cigars filled with whipped goat’s cheese and paired with witloof, sweet raisin puree and beets, the dish lifted by a drizzle of orange-infused olive oil. The curly willow whitebait entree wasn’t crisp, as the “fried” description might have promised, but the tiny fish were succulent and well matched with a creamy celeriac puree, nut-brown butter and a squeeze of lemon.

Our mains arrived very quickly after the entrees and without the offer of another glass of wine. Unable to find red wines by the glass in the menu (a page was missing), we flagged down another waiter who quickly rectified the situation. The wine list itself displays expertise and consideration, showcasing producers of proven quality. It also has a pleasing local slant, including a good “Otago by the glass” section.

The Southland rib-eye was cooked perfectly medium-rare as requested, and was accompanied by a sweetcorn puree (a tad cool), a heavenly potato parmesan beignet that was golden on the outside, soft and cheesy on the inside, and a flavoursome cepe jus.

We were expecting desserts to be a highlight as Thornley’s talented long-time pastry chef Brian Campbell is now based here. His jumbo chocolate macaron erred on the dense side, but the pear and almond financier certainly didn’t disappoint – topped with pear, it was served with creamy Heilala vanilla ice-cream and nestled in a pool of
“milk jam” – a glossy, slightly bitter caramel, which transformed the good dish into something sublime.

The Wakatipu Grill’s dishes aren’t too complicated, allowing the great local produce to star, but there are unexpected elements to surprise and delight on every plate. Like the restaurant’s interior, they strike the perfect balance of being just a little bit earthy and a little bit glitzy.

Hilton Queenstown, Kawarau Village, Peninsula Rd, ph: 03-450 9400
Mon-Sun 6am-11pm
$$$$