The Rainforest - Dunedin

The historic villa at 95 Filleul St has been home to many restaurants over the past 30-odd years, ranging from fine dining to jazz cafes and slow food eateries. For the past couple of years it’s been Malaysian restaurant The Rainforest. Unlike the dozens of cheap and cheerful Asian eateries at the university end of town, finer things are aspired to here, both in the presentation of the food and in the small but interesting wine list.

Malaysia has many cuisines and The Rainforest specialises in Malaysian Indian with soft, flaky rotis, dhals and thosai (dosai). These huge, thin, crisp South Indian rice flour and lentil pancakes are presented with various fillings in a large roll across the plate, accompanied by curries and chutneys for dipping. Purists will also find traditional Malay dishes such as nasi goreng, satay, curry puffs and a delicious beef rendang.

The Malaysian chefs here offer their curries mild, medium or hot, as do most Asian restaurants in New Zealand. However, if you ask for a dish to be spiced as the chefs themselves would eat it, you get a mild to medium heat that allows the other spices in the blend to show through without being overpowered by chilli.

Salads are served with the mains – particularly delicious was a crisp pile of shredded cabbage and carrot, served with a peanut dressing.

To finish are desserts such as sago gula melaka, with coconut milk, peanuts and palm sugar, or teh tarik, the “pulled tea” so popular in Malaysia, made with condensed milk and poured from a height to raise a froth.

The staff knowledgeably explain the dishes and answer questions about the food. Although it can be busy, the pace of service is good, meaning you can pop in for a quick meal or take your time as you prefer. There are some good wines to linger over, including a couple of Central Otago pinot noirs, and you can also bring your own.

The old colonial villa, with wooden floors and ornate plaster ceiling roses, is reminiscent of those in former British colonies like Penang. Ikat table runners and a few Malaysian knick-knacks bring a restrained hint of the exotic to this busy restaurant.

95 Filleul St, ph: 03-471 9265, therainforest.co.nz
Lunch Tues-Sat 11.30am-2.30pm, dinner Tues-Thurs & Sun 5.30pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-10.30pm, Mains $17-$19