RATING:
The allure of alleyways and attics is exploited beautifully by the multi-million-dollar industrial-devolution style of the Imperial Building which now houses fine-dining newcomer Roxy, along with a warren of associated bar, cafe and casual dining spaces. These clever and creative crevices form the most significant sign yet that feisty Fort St can transform into Auckland’s Gastown or Greenwich Village.

In attitude and aptitude, from welcome to wine and dish details, the staff at Roxy are among the best trained and most smoothly practised you are likely to find. Explanations of cooking times and provenance are proffered without affectation, from a menu that begs as much debate and discussion as the films that must once have flickered here in the building’s guise as Everybody’s Picture Theatre.

Mains feature harmonious plot lines with tantalising, off-the-wall twists. Consider the casting connections between John Dory, peas, preserved orange, bergamot, oyster mushroom and cauliflower; or follow the relationships between saffron, potato, ravioli, aubergine, globe artichoke and olive. (I have left out a few of the characters in order not to totally reveal the ending.)

If the suspense is killing you, cuisine director Sean Marshall can be trusted to entertain your palate right to the final scene – with the waitstaff effortlessly adding the subtitles.

Gary Olasz (pictured left), Roxy’s sommelier-manager, has compiled an exemplary wine list and his recommendations from it are intelligent. His staff are skilled and attentive, rounding out the picture.

Our dinner began with a log of homemade butter, which in flavour, low salt and creaminess eclipsed all other butters. My attempts to channel Hansel and Gretel with the crusty sourdough roll were persistently parried with a sweep of the crumbing comb. Foiled, I dived into an amuse of sweetcorn with avocado puree and olive oil.

“The Whole Duck” is an avian crash-landing concept, with elements of the bird laid out in a line. As a curtain-raiser, duck consomme is poured over a savoury custard. Smooth duck parfait, infused with aniseed cognac, is served with a toasted brioche slice, while a very neat cube of duck leg meat, duck “bacon” (quite salty and prosciutto-like) and crisp “quackling” lie across a trail of farro barley. A delicious dish.

Another entree of moistly poached crayfish medallion was somewhat overpowered by the rich crustacean-flavoured, almond risotto, with a quizzical side dish of verjuice sorbet, almond curd and grapes.

Aged beef, cooked sous vide, was unfortunately without texture, the exposed face of the horizontally halved fillet appearing gelatinous, with any flavour coming from the hidden seared face. Pressed oxtail, crisp beef jerky, spinach and a rich quenelle of bone marrow gave textural contrast, supported by a classic potato “Maxim” – the potato version of tarte Tatin.

Razorback pig – belly, shoulder and head sausage, rib and crispy ear – was served on blanched native puha, accompanied by a Granny Smith apple cream. The flavours were good, though some piggy parts were a little dry.

The desserts all read well. Black pepper fromage blanc followed the theme of interesting twists, served with “tomato water”. We opted for raspberry souffle with a light liquid liquorice sauce and dark cocoa ice-cream – a sultry combination. Poured down a rift in the cap of the perfect souffle, the sauce melded beautifully with its host, creating a softly sensuous, berry-musk middle that was delightfully teased by the chocolate ice-cream.

I was fascinated by the description of “Baba, candied fennel, blood orange, almond, olive oil and sea salt”. Could it work? Soft, salted fennel seed ice-cream, strips of candied fennel, almonds and fresh grapefruit segments garnished an orange-soaked baba. It was an original yet soundly based take on the classic sweet-sour-salty premise. Worked a treat!

High ceilings and an open staircase create a grand, intriguing backdrop for chef Marshall’s ambitious flavours. The Fort Lane complex is a welcome rejuvenation of a lost Auckland treasure; a production creatively
cast and well performed.

Roxy
7 Fort Lane, City,ph: 09-929 2701, roxy.co.nz
Lunch Fri, dinner Tues to Sat
Mains $42