Fish

With a few notable exceptions, hotel restaurants tend to struggle to attain the popularity they might deserve. The performance of White, at the Hilton Auckland, was a case in point. Despite its fantastic location and a series of high-profile chefs, it never quite captured the dining public.

It seemed a wise decision then, to rebrand and relaunch the restaurant a few months ago. We now have Fish which, backed as it is by the Nourish Group (with a stable including Euro and the Jervois Steak House), looks to have a much stronger chance of success.

There have been subtle changes to the decor; the predominant whiteness remains but has been softened with stylish curtains visually breaking up the space. The major improvement, though, is the partial closing in (via discreet transparent sheeting that can be dispensed with on warmer days) and heating of the balcony area. The wonderful view from here, taking in the full panorama of the harbour, marks it out as one of Auckland’s most spectacular dining spaces; all the better that it can now be enjoyed year-round.

There is some truly inspired food coming from the kitchen of chef Shane Yardley, who has progressed far beyond needing to be portrayed as any other chef’s protégé. His menu is wonderfully seasonal, plays due homage to native fish species and successfully employs unusual flavours to great effect.

Best of all, Yardley achieves something that many other chefs are not getting right. His is a menu that flows well; it is cohesive and allows any main to work seamlessly with any entree.

A generous portion of whitebait coated in a very light salt and pepper batter was delectable and perfectly cooked, offset well by a squeeze of lemon. The tempura-coated paua was given a similarly sympathetic treatment; again perfectly cooked and tender.

The mains showed there is still room for refinement; the breaded snapper with white beans lacked texture, while the crab and prawn crust on the hapuku was not substantial enough to be wholly effective. But on the whole the cooking was excellent and the flavours generous.

I did, however, take issue with details that prevented our dining experience from being as polished as it could have been. Our table wobbled uncontrollably; I noted spelling errors on the menu and wine list, along with claims on the latter that made no sense; the music selection was appalling; and the staff, while pleasant and eager to please, simply did not know their stuff. Such faults are always disappointing, but unacceptable in a restaurant that positions itself at the very high end. Additionally, while I appreciate that Fish is aiming to be innovative, I am unconvinced that such quirks as the children’s soup spoons or sauces in syringes are effective enough to deserve a place at the table.

Similar high jinks are evident in the desserts: the nitro mousse, cooked with flair at the table by Yardley himself, unfortunately lacked any real depth of flavour. But the dessert menu as a whole displayed a pleasing level of interest: offerings such as hot and cold pina colada or roast banana with salted caramel ice-cream make a welcome alternative to the line-ups of brulees, sorbets and caramels on so many menus.

White’s prices were infamously high but, while here they remain at the upper end of the spectrum, they are no longer totally out of kilter with charges in competing restaurants around town. More to the point, the value now being delivered by Shane Yardley’s excellent food makes the bill considerably more palatable.

Hilton Auckland, Princes Wharf, 147 Quay St, City, Auckland, ph: 09-978 2000
Mon-Sun 12pm-10.30pm
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