RATING:
I was a guest at Banque the night it opened in 2005. Strangely it all still seems very familiar, although I have dined there only occasionally since. I put this down to hallmarks that clearly characterise it as the inspiration of owner Dominique Parat. The uber-urbane Parat has been a quiet but respected force in the Auckland dining scene for many years and is responsible for a number of successful restaurants around the city.

Like its French owner, there is something very stylish about Banque. But this is understated élan rather than in-your-face trendy. A small, light and airy bar area opens on to Remuera Rd while the main dining room stretches to the rear. The furnishings are modern – comfortable chairs in soft tones contrast with dark brown banquettes and touches of rich red, while the tables are well spaced and beautifully laid. It’s a warm and inviting space that puts you in a positive frame of mind, while its Remuera location means it attracts its fair share of well-heeled fellow diners, providing opportunities for some fascinating eavesdropping between courses.

I suspect ex-chef Parat says his piece, but the Banque kitchen is clearly the domain of chefs Matt Cook and Adrian Managh who present a thoughtful menu offering something for all tastes. It may not be the most creative cuisine on offer in the city, but it is underpinned by excellent cooking technique, balance and beautiful presentation.

We began with seared Coromandel scallops which, though tiny, were moist and sweetly flavoured with vanilla, pineapple and coconut. The inclusion of slices of caramelised pork hock as a paean to the concept of surf and turf showed that this is a kitchen that can be playful. In a similar manner, the delicious slice of crumbed duck liver that accompanied the cannelloni of braised duck, artichoke veloute and pancetta dust continued this flirtation between the serious and light-hearted.

The main courses were equally balanced and satisfying. The slow-roasted duck was well seasoned and expertly cooked, though the skin on the breast was a little oilier than I would have liked. The accompanying honey-glazed kumara, mandarin, almond and red chard contributed a lovely sweetness and textural contrast.

For my main I chose the lamb loin with fondant potato and pea puree. It was beautifully presented, with the lamb perfectly pink and the goat’s cheese and fennel adeptly providing all the necessary piquancy.

Desserts are clearly another strong point for Banque – a pear and prune crumble and an apple and golden raisin bastilla rounded off our meal nicely.

I must mention the drinks list, which rates as one of the more complete I have seen in Auckland. The well-balanced wine list has a selection of local and imported brands that appear to have been selected with the menu in mind. There are plenty of by-the-glass options and prices are reasonable.

Recognition should also be given to the imposing Oskar Zlatarevic, who has the impressive title of Banque Host. Zlatarevic runs the dining room expertly, responsive to the requests of his guests, including some demanding regulars. He knows the menu well and is happy to recommend wines to match.

Banque’s tasteful environment, polished service and expertly executed menu provide plenty of dining satisfaction, whether you’re a local or a visitor to the Remuera neighbourhood.

Banque Bistro Gastro Bar
311 Remuera Rd, Remuera,
ph: 09-522 6688, banque.co.nz
7 days from 4pm
Mains $33-$65