Kingfish Tartare Verte

A look at my Forest & Bird Best Fish Guide has kingfish at the sustainable end of the list. Its slightly oily texture and rich flavour work well with the salty-sour flavours here.

200ml plain unsweetened yoghurt
small handful each flat-leafed parsley, basil and mint leaves, plus extra to serve
1⁄4 cucumber, peeled, halved lengthways, deseeded, diced 1cm
1 teaspoon salt
500g skinned and boned kingfish fillet, diced 1cm
peel of 1⁄2 preserved lemon, finely diced
1⁄2 cup finely chopped pitted green olives
2 tablespoons finely sliced chives
1⁄2 stick celery, diced 1cm
1 avocado, peeled, stoned and diced 2cm
2 tablespoons capers
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
large pinch of chilli flakes
6 very thin slices cucumber, made by cutting the ends off a cucumber then using a potato peeler to slice off thin ribbons the length of the cucumber (optional)
toasted sourdough bread to serve

Place the yoghurt, parsley, basil and mint in a blender then puree until smooth (or use a stick blender). Taste and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper then cover and refrigerate.

Put the diced cucumber in a bowl with the salt. Mix well then set aside for 20 minutes. Rinse well in cold water then squeeze dry and place in a bowl.

Add the kingfish, preserved lemon, olives, chives, celery, avocado, capers, oil and chilli to the cucumber. Gently mix to combine, taking care not to mash the avocado. Taste and season.

If using the cucumber ribbons, wrap each one around itself so you have a 9cm-diameter cylinder then place each on a serving plate. Secure with toothpicks if necessary.

Fill each cylinder with the fish mixture (or just make small piles of the fish mixture). Drizzle a ring of the yoghurt and herb sauce around each plate then sprinkle with herbs. Serve with the toasted sourdough.

Wine A crisp, dry-style Nelson pinot gris from the 2011 vintage.