There is some question as to the thyme’s provenance – some believe it is a Syrian hyssop (and similar to oregano), others that it is closer to summer savory or marjoram. Often you will find recipes for za’atar with some or all of these herbs.

In its simplest form za’atar is made from dried thyme, toasted sesame seeds and salt. The blends and spices vary depending on where in the Middle East you are. In Lebanon the dried crushed red berries known as sumac are often added, sometimes with the addition of dried orange peel. In Syria sumac, cumin, paprika and chilli may be used. Palestinian versions may include caraway, while Israeli versions sometimes add dill and garlic. Jordanian za’atar may also include spearmint.

In any case, whichever style blend you use, it is best matched to flavours that are either strong enough to handle the spice mix – such as olives, feta, salmon, fish, lamb and beef.

Basic za’atar
1⁄4 cup dried wild thyme (or combine
2 tablespoons thyme with
2 tablespoons oregano)
1⁄4 cup toasted sesame seeds
2 tablespoons sumac (available from specialty food stores)
1 teaspoon sea salt

Mix all the ingredients together and store in an airtight container.

● Throughout Lebanon the breakfast flatbread mankoushe is spread lavishly with za’atar and olive oil before baking like pizza. Or try smearing labneh (yoghurt cheese, available at good food stores and supermarkets) on pita bread and sprinkle with za’atar and olive oil – roll up and eat.

● A mix of za’atar and sumac is delicious sprinkled over lightly oiled salmon or thick meaty fish pieces, seasoned with salt and either panfried or baked (pictured above).

● Warm olives over a low heat with a little olive oil until heated through and sprinkle with za’atar just before serving.

● Roll labneh in za’atar and serving with crisp thin bread or crackers with drinks.

● Panfry skin-on, boned chicken thighs in oil, weighing down the chicken with a plate and saucepan so the skin becomes very crisp. Just before serving, sprinkle generously with za’atar and serve with wedges of lemon.

● Try sprinkling za’atar over lamb cutlets, chicken pieces or vegetables before grilling or roasting