Preserved lemons add a boost of flavour to all kinds of dishes – they’re often used in Moroccan and other North African cuisines, as their cultures have a tradition of preserving lemons to obtain a citrus hit even when the fruit is out of season. Limes and grapefruit can also be preserved in this manner, while the Vietnamese make a version called chanh muôi. Made either from lemons or limes, it is used mostly to produce
a salty-sweet lemonade.

● To make preserved lemons, scrub lemons thoroughly then cut into quarters nearly to the base where the lemon attaches to the stalk. Sprinkle the inside of the cut lemons with rock salt (allow a generous tablespoon for each lemon – don’t use iodised or table salt as it will make the lemons bitter). Add a large handful of rock salt to the bottom of a sterilised jar then start packing in the lemons as tightly as you can, along with a couple of bay leaves (or other aromatics such as cinnamon sticks, coriander seeds or chillies). Top up the jar with freshly squeezed lemon juice then add a little olive oil so the lemons are covered. Make sure you have no air bubbles then screw on the lid. Leave in a cool dark place for at least a month before using. It pays to occasionally turn the jar upside down. Once opened, store in the fridge. To use, remove the flesh and white pith and just use the lemon skins.

● In small quantities, preserved lemons add a little zing to tapenades as well as a refreshing flavour to couscous, lentil or quinoa salads. The liquid from the jar can also be used in dressings.

● Preserved lemons transform yoghurt or mayonnaise to be used as a dressing and, finely chopped, add flavour to a tomato and coriander salsa to accompany fish.

● Add a dressing of extra virgin olive oil and finely chopped preserved lemon peel to cooked, warmed lentils or beans along with plenty of watercress or rocket. Serve with crumbled feta or as an accompaniment for grilled
lamb leg steaks.

● Make a flavoured butter by adding finely chopped preserved lemon, garlic and chives to softened butter. Spread under a chicken skin before roasting or serve atop a piece of fried fish.

● Finish a seafood risotto with finely chopped preserved lemon or add to a gremolata, along with finely chopped parsley and garlic, to finish a braise of beef or lamb.

● Add slivers of preserved lemons to vegetables before roasting. Or blanch and saute silverbeet, broccoli
or cauliflower in olive oil with garlic then add slivers of preserved lemon and some pitted olives.

● Make a tagine of lamb or chicken by browning the meat then adding chopped onions, garlic, slivers of preserved lemons, cumin seeds, a few chopped tomatoes, fresh coriander and a little stock or water. Preserved
lemons will also enliven all kinds of other casseroles.